Australia's top food critic slams iconic cheese brand amid closure news
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The closure of a business that has endured for over a century always invites reflection, nostalgia, and, often, a sense of loss within the community.
For many Australians, the announcement that King Island Dairy would close after 120 years of operation was met with sadness and disbelief.
This iconic Tasmanian cheese shop, nestled on a small island with a population of just 1,600, has been a staple in the lives of many, not just as a producer of gourmet cheeses but as a significant employer and part of the island's identity.
The news of its closure was met with a controversial response from John Lethlean, Australia's most acid-tongued food critic, known for his sharp and often unforgiving reviews.
Lethlean, who has penned critiques for major Australian newspapers and magazines for over two decades, took to social media to express his less-than-favourable opinion on the dairy's products.
His scathing remarks about King Island Dairy's brie, which he described as 'rubbish' and 'devoid of any character,' have sparked a heated debate among his followers and the wider public.
The critic's blunt assessment was accompanied by a photo of the cheese in question, looking less than appetising as it sweated in crumpled tin foil.
This visual, paired with Lethlean's harsh words, divided his audience.
Some agreed with his critique, expressing disappointment with the brand's offerings.
Others, however, were quick to criticise Lethlean for what they perceived as insensitivity towards the employees and the community affected by the closure.
One such response came from the premium smoked fish brand Bellarine Smokehouse, which pointed out the impact of the business's demise on the local community and questioned the appropriateness of Lethlean's timing and tone.
The comment highlighted the broader implications of the closure, not just for cheese aficionados but for the livelihoods of those on King Island.
Saputo, King Island Dairy's Canadian owner, decided to close, citing the need to strengthen its competitiveness in a changing market.
Despite exploring 'every possible option,' including the potential sale of the facility, the conclusion was that shutting down was the most viable path forward.
This decision has left 58 employees facing an uncertain future, although Saputo has mentioned looking into 'redeployment opportunities' where possible.
Saputo, which describes itself as one of the top 10 dairy processors in the world, has a history of acquisitions in Australia, including the purchase of Lion Dairy & Drinks's cheese business in 2019, which included King Island Dairy.
The company also owns Cheer Cheese, formerly known as Coon Cheese, having bought most of Warrnambool Cheese and Butter a decade ago.
The Tasmanian Premier, Jeremy Rockliff, expressed his disappointment at the closure and assured immediate support for the workers, farmers, and the wider island community.
The state government has also indicated its willingness to work with Saputo to find a new operator for the facility.
King Island's unique climate and lush grazing conditions have long provided the perfect environment for dairy farming, contributing to the distinct quality of its cheese products.
The loss of King Island Dairy marks the end of an era for a brand that has been nostalgic in Australians' hearts for generations.
Have you had a chance to taste their cheeses? What does the closure of such a longstanding business mean to you? Let us know in the comments below.
For many Australians, the announcement that King Island Dairy would close after 120 years of operation was met with sadness and disbelief.
This iconic Tasmanian cheese shop, nestled on a small island with a population of just 1,600, has been a staple in the lives of many, not just as a producer of gourmet cheeses but as a significant employer and part of the island's identity.
The news of its closure was met with a controversial response from John Lethlean, Australia's most acid-tongued food critic, known for his sharp and often unforgiving reviews.
Lethlean, who has penned critiques for major Australian newspapers and magazines for over two decades, took to social media to express his less-than-favourable opinion on the dairy's products.
After the closure announcement, food critic John Lethlean sparks controversy by calling King Island Dairy's brie 'rubbish' and 'devoid of character'. Credit: @johnlethlean / Instagram
His scathing remarks about King Island Dairy's brie, which he described as 'rubbish' and 'devoid of any character,' have sparked a heated debate among his followers and the wider public.
The critic's blunt assessment was accompanied by a photo of the cheese in question, looking less than appetising as it sweated in crumpled tin foil.
This visual, paired with Lethlean's harsh words, divided his audience.
Some agreed with his critique, expressing disappointment with the brand's offerings.
Others, however, were quick to criticise Lethlean for what they perceived as insensitivity towards the employees and the community affected by the closure.
One such response came from the premium smoked fish brand Bellarine Smokehouse, which pointed out the impact of the business's demise on the local community and questioned the appropriateness of Lethlean's timing and tone.
The comment highlighted the broader implications of the closure, not just for cheese aficionados but for the livelihoods of those on King Island.
Saputo, King Island Dairy's Canadian owner, decided to close, citing the need to strengthen its competitiveness in a changing market.
Despite exploring 'every possible option,' including the potential sale of the facility, the conclusion was that shutting down was the most viable path forward.
This decision has left 58 employees facing an uncertain future, although Saputo has mentioned looking into 'redeployment opportunities' where possible.
Saputo, which describes itself as one of the top 10 dairy processors in the world, has a history of acquisitions in Australia, including the purchase of Lion Dairy & Drinks's cheese business in 2019, which included King Island Dairy.
The company also owns Cheer Cheese, formerly known as Coon Cheese, having bought most of Warrnambool Cheese and Butter a decade ago.
The Tasmanian Premier, Jeremy Rockliff, expressed his disappointment at the closure and assured immediate support for the workers, farmers, and the wider island community.
The state government has also indicated its willingness to work with Saputo to find a new operator for the facility.
King Island's unique climate and lush grazing conditions have long provided the perfect environment for dairy farming, contributing to the distinct quality of its cheese products.
The loss of King Island Dairy marks the end of an era for a brand that has been nostalgic in Australians' hearts for generations.
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